The primary component of teaching a horse to Neck rein is to ensure the rider's Reins are held and directed properly. Being able to do this requires the proper Bit for the job you want to do.

A good rule of thumb to remember is that four and five-year-old western show horses are categorized as aged horses - therefore, in western classes they must be shown in one Hand and in shanked bits. But because shank bits have unique leverage points, these are not the ideal mouthpieces for teaching a horse to neck rein. Instead, I prefer to use a snaffle bit and two hands, especially because many of the horses that come to me at this point in their training are also younger animals. As we progress with the training the horse will gradually make the transition to one-handed neck reining in a shank bit, but I may move Back and fourth to a snaffle to work through any resistance.

The foundation you put in needs to be solid, so you can always go back to it. I feel that soft mouths are created from better Horsemanship, not bigger bits - but that's an entirely different article.

Next, I prefer to use split reins when training colts and when I start showing young horses. I also like my reins to be made from sturdy, thicker leather, approximately 5/8" wide and 8 feet long. I find reins that attach to the bit by smaller leather lacings are more dependable and safer than Chicago screws or clips - although they may not be as quick to attach to different bridles. However, the neck reining exercises I am about to explain can be done with any kind of safe and reliable rein, including joined reins.

When riding with two hands, each of my reins are flipped to the opposite side of the horse's neck from where they originated at the bit. One rein then overlaps the other when I put them together, and it does not matter which rein is on top. What is important is that both reins must be equal lengths from the bit.

The next step is to insert my thumbs underneath both reins and grab a hold by wrapping my other fingers around them - but not a death grip. I want to be sure that the distance between my two hands is not too wide, just slightly wider than the horse's Withers. And my thumbs must remain up at all times. They don't necessarily need to point upwards - as this looks odd - but holding them like a hitchhiker is a good exercise for riders to learn to keep them up. Think of it like a Siskel and Ebert evaluation - thumbs up means the rider's shoulders are balanced and a good performance is occurring; thumbs down means the rider's rating just followed suit. Usually when the thumbs drop the rider will start to lean to one side or the other - for example if the left thumb is down, the rider is probably leaning to the left. This is an essential concept to remember, because as we later progress to turning our horses left or right, we will avoid turning our wrists under.

In order to achieve responsive neck reining horses, we want to evade a "turning-the-key effect" with our wrists, although it is a very common problem for many riders. When riding with one hand, the rough sides of my split reins are put together, and the smooth sides remain out. I always keep them both in my left hand and my index finger is inserted between them. My knuckles must remain upwards at all times, otherwise my wrist may flip over.

For effective neck reining, I want to keep a little slack in my reins. I need to be able to trust my horse and avoid holding the reins so short that I actually prevent him from being able to move forward comfortably. Furthermore, riding my horse on a looser rein will allow their mind and body to relax faster as I am not trying to contain their face. There is a happy medium however - my reins are too long if I can bring my hands back behind the Saddle horn and my horse does not move backwards. Sometimes we may think having our horses on a really long rein is nice for them, but the truth is a rider can shorten the reins and still stay off the horse's face.

Steering

The Gear Box

Alright, so we've established the philosophies, we've got our equipment in order - but how do we "drive?" Guiding and steering a horse is exactly the opposite of driving a car. An automobile does not have a living and breathing mind of its own, it must always be directed. When steering around a curve for example, the steering wheel must be held in the direction the driver wants to turn. The horse can be taught certain cues and follow through with them all on its own. To turn left or right, forward or back, a quick cue can be given and the horse will comply without having to be held the whole way through - this way you're riding for response rather than holding for completion.

Training a horse to follow directions this way actually allows the animal a choice in the matter, which also keeps the education fun. Essentially, training a horse to neck rein can be time consuming and frustrating at certain moments. The key is simply to remember the consistency.

I like to visualize my steering by pretending I have a giant joystick and gear box just above the horse's withers. This area grants me control of my horse's shoulders. The neutral position is located just slightly above the withers, and my hand remains central, low and quiet here whenever my horse is performing as I ask. To move forward, my hand shall move straight up and forward, and to go backwards my hand will move straight up and. As soon as my horse heads in the direction I wish, I must center my hand back at the neutral position to signal the correct idea is being achieved.

It's important to remember that the hands specifically control the horse's shoulders - our legs create the impulsion.

Giant Joystick

The giant joystick is situated at the same place as the gear box, however it is responsible for turning the horse left and right. To move directly to the right, my hand does not need to go too far from the neutral position, I just move it up to the right. And I do exactly the opposite to proceed left. To go forward to the right, I offer forward and to the right with my reins, etc. Again, as soon as my horse heads in the direction I wish, I must center my hand back at the neutral position to signal the correct idea is being achieved.

Use of the Rider's Legs/Collection

In addition to the Gear Box and Giant Joystick, cueing a horse to move in one direction or another with its body in proper alignment, and with proper collection requires the use of the rider's legs.

The key to maintaining all of this is to use the legs first (to signal forward motion), and then the hands (Gear Box and Joystick). To move forwards for example, I would first bounce both of my legs on both sides and offer forward with my reins to signal the advancement. To move forward to the right I would bounce my legs, and offer forward to the right with my reins, and so on. It's important to note that I do not push a horse left or right with my outside leg. They should be able to guide softly and easily between my reins alone, my legs just initiate the forward movement.

If the horse becomes "stuck" (ex. You are offering forward to the right and they quit guiding), I'll either elevate my hand or bump firmer with the outside leg.

I also don't squeeze with my legs - this just gives the horse something to lean on. Instead our legs should bump them, as if to say "go forward - go forward." When we add collection to the picture - asking our horses to carry themselves "round" or in a "frame" - the idea works very similar.

Normally the horse carries approximately 60% of weight on the front end and 40% on the hind. However, we teach the horse to carry themselves with their backs round so they learn to keep themselves balanced without the help of the rider. This also distributes the weight differently, and gives them strength and fluidity for maneuvers. In turn, this allows the horse to move at a cleaner, prettier, optimum level and just for interest's sake, it will also enable a reining horse to bury its hind end in the sliding stop. A reiner that runs for a sliding stop with a hollow back will stop its velocity with the front end, causing jarring on the joints and a short, abrupt halt - which often also sends the rider bouncing forward out of position! The trick is not to achieve collection more from one end of the horse's body than the other - it must come from the middle.

Collection is achieved by tapping the ribcage, moving the horse forward with my legs towards the bit, where the impulsion can be contained. It does not result from holding the reins tightly (forcing the front end down) or by getting the majority of the horse's weight loaded onto the hocks. Instead, I prefer to bounce my legs lightly on the horse's sides, drawing straight upwards with my reins and maintaining until the horse rounds themself up. This way, the midsection is elevated, the hocks are drawn forward towards the Barrel, and the horse breaks over at the wither so the shoulders elevate as well. The whole body rounds itself and uses the muscles in a more balanced formation. So to reiterate, I simply bounce my legs at the Girth and hold the reins until my horse figures out what to do, and then I reward him or her by dropping my hand (to the neutral position) and stopping the action of my legs.

It's equally important not to quit asking until my horse complies, otherwise I will teach them not to listen to me.

Visualize the concept in this manner; You are holding a hockey stick with both hands above your head. Someone pokes you in the ribcage. What is your reaction? Your first instinct will likely be to bring your arms back down to your sides. This analogy is a representation of the horse holding a bit in their mouth. When you bounce your legs against their sides, your horse wants to make it stop - so I wait for them to soften to the bit and when they do, I quit bouncing my legs as I relax my reins/hand into the neutral position. By bouncing with equal pressure of both legs, the horse's alignment should also stay straight.

Timing

When teaching horses to guide/neck rein and have proper collection, even the slightest amount of "try" must be rewarded immediately in order to keep them willing and soft. Horses become frustrated, as any creature would, if they are not shown some positive reinforcement. So for example, if I am trying to teach a young Colt to go forward to the right, I would bounce both of my legs on the horse's sides (to signal the forward motion), lift my reins up to the right, and maintain until the horse complied. If the colt wanted to go left, backwards or somewhere other than forward to the right, I would just keep doing the same thing. That colt can try everything in the book if he wants, but I will not stop these cues until he gestures in the correct direction and we achieve the desired result.

If the horse is doing something incorrectly, I must prevent it from influencing my focus. Once he's got the idea, I drop my hands to the neutral position and my legs stop bouncing. I just wait until he does what I want, instead of muscling him to the goal. Otherwise, my horse may learn to be resentful and swish his tail, toss his head, etc. (although some horses do this regardless of the rider's technique, but we can try to prevent it).

The ultimate objective is to have my horse go in the desired direction as soon as my hand starts to move that way - as though they are always trying to stay "under" my hand. I don't want any amount of dead time or resistance.

Unfortunately, teaching people when to release or to stop asking/cueing is one of the hardest things to explain. Basically what I can tell you is that as soon as you see or feel the horse achieve even a little of the desired result, stop cueing to reward them. Horses learn not from pressure, but from the release of it! Then gradually ask for a little more, and eventually the whole concept can be put together - just keep persevering. Progression will come in small steps and the bottom line is softness is achieved through focus and consistency.

Remember to reward even the slightest try because the problem we have as riders is recognizing when we've got a good thing, even as insignificant as it may seem.